A. Be extremely careful unrolling and handling the steel track rail to avoid producing any crimps or bends that will make installation much more difficult.  As a coil, the rail must be treated as such.  Its soft temper makes is it easy to bend into place around turns but requires delicate handling.

B. With a clean rag and naptha or similar cleaner, wipe all the track rail and lane coding clean of any excess oil or dirt to maximize adhesion when installed.  Tie loops around the coils of both rail and lane coding to maintain control over uncoiling during later installation.

C. The power taps provided must be trimmed square, deburred, and beveled at one end to provide maximum clearance for the lane coding.  If a cover plate is to be used, trim the power taps to their desired length at this point.  Electrical wire can also be used in the same manner as an option.

D. Using a Dremel Moto Tool and sanding drum, stone wheel or similar, grind a 1/8" long beveled taper through the thickness of each track rail at one end.  This will provide the overlap for the track rail's other end.

E. Since the track rail is located at the outside edge of its respective slot, the power taps always face inward toward the guide slot.  Also, the power taps should be soldered on the "smooth" side of each rail, with the smooth side also facing the guide slot.

Using paste flux and 60/40 lead-tin solder, solder the beveled end of the power taps to the bottom half only of each track rail approximately one foot from the beveled end.  Room must be left at the top half of the rail to allow the colored lane coding to sit flush with the track surface.  Make sure that the power tap is perpendicular to the track rail.  Be sure to use ample solder and heat to achieve a well sweated solder joint.  Grind any excess solder from the top half of all taps as necessary.  Clean any flux residue thoroughly to avoid corrosion.

F. Test fit the track rail with lane coding at the power tap to ensure that it will fit properly.